Best kiln wash?

[Planet Glass]

What kiln wash do you recommend with respect to not sticking to glass during full fusing temperatures?

[mikefraserprojects]

Bullseye Kilnwash gets my vote.

[Dennis Brady]

What kiln wash do you recommend with respect to not sticking to glass during full fusing temperatures?

Bullseye for fusing, Hotline for casting. Here's why:
http://www.glasscampus.com/tutorials/pdf/Kiln%20wash%20comparison.pdf

[Planet Glass]

Would this product be of any use?

FUSEMASTER Back Magic
Adds shine and texture on the back side of fused pieces. Spray or brush on piece, fire to 975 F (524 C) well below slumping temperatures. Will not eliminate texture but makes most surfaces more glossy & smooth. For use after initial slumping process.

[Dennis Brady]

Would this product be of any use?

FUSEMASTER Back Magic
Adds shine and texture on the back side of fused pieces. Spray or brush on piece, fire to 975 F (524 C) well below slumping temperatures. Will not eliminate texture but makes most surfaces more glossy & smooth. For use after initial slumping process.

Can't say. Never tried it. Can't imagine why I would try it. All the glass I fuse comes out as glossy and smooth as glass gets glossy and smooth. Does this stuff magically make glass glossier than glass glossy? If it's fired after the slump firing, that's an extra firing. I'm guessing this is some form of paint.

[bert weiss]

Would this product be of any use?

FUSEMASTER Back Magic
Adds shine and texture on the back side of fused pieces. Spray or brush on piece, fire to 975 F (524 C) well below slumping temperatures. Will not eliminate texture but makes most surfaces more glossy & smooth. For use after initial slumping process.

Back Magic is an overglaze, not a kiln wash. As an overglaze, in all the years I have been reading bulletin boards, I can not recall a single posting that says that the product does what it says at the recommended temperature.

Kiln wash is a fairly complex subject. I have very different opinions relative to what temperature you are firing to. For under 1400ºF, I like Bullseye kilnwash or a home made equivalent. This is essentially for slumping molds. When it comes to fusing, I personally don't care for this style of wash. You have to apply a fresh coat every time you fuse. Eventually it chips and you have to tediously remove it all and start over.

Bullseye kiln wash is essentially alumina hydrate and EPK kaolin clay in a 50/50 mixture, by weight. I learned that alumina hydrate comes in a range of particle grinds. When I went to the pottery supply and bought some, it was coarser than the product used by Bullseye. This, of course, yields a rougher wash surface.

I like a product made by JM Huber called SB 432 Alumina Trihydrate. It is a very fine grind and yields a nice surface. I often simply sift this on a fiber shelf and fire either Bullseye or Float glasses.

Primo is a manufactured kiln wash from Ed Hoy that wipes off easily after each use. I like this one. Often I make my own by mixing alumina hydrate in liquid CMC and paint or spray it on. It also wipes off after firing, but can be reused.

[Kara]

Does this [JM Huber called SB 432 Alumina Trihydrate] need to be sanded off the shelf and then reapplied or do you just use it on fiber board and not a kiln shelf. And when you say sift it, do you me that you just dry dust with this stuff on the fiber shelf (or) board instead of mixing it with water and applying with a brush.

Ed Hoy stuff is it a powder you mix into a liquid or is it something that turns into a powder after each firing?

[Dennis Brady]

Does this [JM Huber called SB 432 Alumina Trihydrate] need to be sanded off the shelf and then reapplied or do you just use it on fiber board and not a kiln shelf. And when you say sift it, do you me that you just dry dust with this stuff on the fiber shelf (or) board instead of mixing it with water and applying with a brush.

Ed Hoy stuff is it a powder you mix into a liquid or is it something that turns into a powder after each firing?

Any kiln wash can be applied dry but by mixing it in with a liquid you're more likely to get a smooth uniform covering. The Ed Hoy "Hotline" doesn't turn to a powder from firing but it does powder off with only a light brushing. We use it for casting in ceramic molds and it takes only a minute or so to brush out with a toothbrush.

[bert weiss]

Does this [JM Huber called SB 432 Alumina Trihydrate] need to be sanded off the shelf and then reapplied or do you just use it on fiber board and not a kiln shelf. And when you say sift it, do you me that you just dry dust with this stuff on the fiber shelf (or) board instead of mixing it with water and applying with a brush.

Ed Hoy stuff is it a powder you mix into a liquid or is it something that turns into a powder after each firing?

I never want a smooth bottom. My approach is: "If you can't get rid of the texture, make it interesting". I like texture. So I just sift it on and place the glass on and fire it. It comes right off and can be reused over and over. Often I use a mixture of powders to create intentional textures. I have many different types of sand, diatomaceous earth, alumina etc.

THe Ed Hoy Primo wash has a powdered binder in it that burns up during the firing, so that it can be easily wiped off. Ed is no dummy. You have to buy this and re-apply each time. If you mix in liquid binder, it can be reused. There is a limit to how many times powders can be reused, but I am not sure where that is. They work over and over for me.

Back Magic is supposed to make the bottom glossy. I've never seen this happen. Filmore is the resident expert. Perhaps he can shed some light on what I don't know about it?